MY PILGRIM WAY from Munich/Germany over Switzerland and France to Santiago de Compostella in Spain.
It made it with my Fatbike (Surly Moonlander) and with camping equipment most of the time on the original pilgrim route. This is the diary of my Way of St. James pilgrimage. A few photos you can see here: www.walter- lauter.de/fotos-mountainbike/2013/jakoksweg-fatbike/
Saturday, 29.6.2013 train from Bad Kissingen to Munich. Even in Schweinfurt no bike transport . Therefore, the next train . Jochen picked me up at the station by bike. At the Convent of the Poor School Sisters , the start point of the Camino de Santiago picked up the first punch . Then stayed with him. Rainy weather !
Sunday, 30.6. Start in Munich at 06:30 . Floodplains by the Isar river , soon the first time I traversed landed on trails worst order. The weather is improving. At 11:00 , after 50km beer and white sausages in Andechs Monastery . CHEERS :-) I am cycled till to 21:30. It was going so well . Would prefer cycled into the night . But after 204 km and 2450 meters of altitude must also be closing times :-) I have previously visited the big M in Marktoberdorf and treated myself to a Mac. As well, the Aral gas station next door I bought 1 liter of FAXES (beer ) :-) broke my small tent looking at the forest edge . CHEERS and good night :-) All good !
Monday, 1.7. Last night pretty badly beaten . Very often woke up. This has been shown in my performance today . The increases were rather slow . 118km with 2650 meters of altitude. But I'm still doing well . Germany is behind with Austria almost even . Tomorrow morning to Switzerland . The mountain near by the Lake Constance was very tough. Taken in Bregenz still a dear friend :-) night at the campsite in Bregenz, again :-) showers . Pasta and a can of beer , ALL GOOD :-)
Tuesday, 2.7. What a great weather :-) sweating like a madman . Way I like it . Today I met a few pilgrimns by foot , Swiss , African, French and German . A farmer has not only just my bottle filled with spring water, but also offered me beer. OK, the next half hour I then rolled a little slowlier :-) Heading picked wild strawberries , yummy feet in Lake Zurich :-) cooled and washed the socks . Now I sit on with 111km and 2300 altitude meters under a church porch and let a light rain to pull me over. We'll see if that still works!
Wednesday, 03.07 . , Fourth day Yesterday evening from 19:00 clock has slowed down a storm me with heavy rain . I sat 2 hours under a church porch , the rain did not stop. I then placed myself behind the church on a covered bench to rest. OK , not a quality night, no beer and nothing special to eat, but in such cases comes out the emergency rations ( trail mix ) :-) Slept very well and I started at 05:30 clock . " Only the early bird catches the worm " ;-) I had 32km to 08:30 and scarce 1000Hm . At the monastery in Einsiedeln, I got my 2nd Picked pilgrims punch and only had breakfast once properly . ( Switzerland is quite expensive !) Today steady rain was indeed predicted for the whole of Switzerland . To 14:00 just one drop . Thought that was it. But after comes more violent . I'm above the Lake Lucerne hiked a trail that was more of a climbing ! Definitely not suitable for biker . But all good. Since my afternoon gills and swimming are grown today , today it´s time to stay a night in a pilgrim hotel . (Total 105km/2300Hm today ) From tomorrow pure sun, YEAH :-)))
Thursday, 07.04 . , Day Five Too bad : the rain should be over this morning :-( laundry outside because I have a cozy hotel room in Beckenried, I start a little later I stop in good time and not on the run :-) Then , despite the rain ! " . full body condom " biking. All has to be good . Placed tunnel vision , not a lot of thinking . So you can make route :-) After 2 hours it's dry . I'm in many lakes ( Lungener , Brenzer , Lake Thun ... ) came over. Now, after 7 hours I slowly hungry again ;-) The rest of the day was quite easy with great weather . I ended up camping at Lake Thun. The Swiss cheese / sausage salad is delicious . Oh, 125km at 1780 meters of altitude. I think the Schwyz is more flat :-)))
Friday, 07.05 . , 6 days Slept perfectly . I met a cool Schwyzer pilgrim by foot . It has an estimated 30kg of luggage , backpack and a " handcart " . I just take care of his luggage , he also happen to be looking for geocaches :-) When I asked how long he will be still on the road , he said " 4 months to 2 years " ! Also an announcement ! Very hot today . I had to pause a couple of times in the shade. But I like it :-) Today I cycled through Fribourg . This went . But in the late afternoon of Lausanne . Conditions for pilgrims were very bad! Pilgrims by foot probably need a whole day to traverse :-) 'm Done today ( 138km/1970Hm ) but happy and glad to have beeen enjoyed camping near Lausanne on Lake Geneva, a wonderful shower . Tomorrow I will cross over the border into France near Geneva . CHEERS and good night :-)))
Saturday, 07.06 . Day 7 A heat! I arrived at noon after 70km on fairly flat terrain in Geneve / Geneva. Break in a park under a shady linden tree :-) Slowly comes the pilgrims feel. When was the last time I watched an ant almost several minutes as they transport a piece of bread .Camping, now in beautiful Rhone Valley. I'm still going today kip well :-) Relatively flat in 1240 at 146km altitude . All good :-)))
Sunday, 07.07 . 8 day Early first rolled 30km and then had breakfast at a wonderful street cafe . That the French always have to overdo it. My cheese sandwich is 40cm long :-) A little tip on the side: there's always water supplies in cemeteries :-) In case of the " Tour de France " I 'm probably a week too early :-) Actually I wanted to ride no 156km/1780Hm until I found Camping tion . Now I'll fries / nuggets and a rose wine taste me. PROST :-)
Monday, 07.08 . , Ninth pilgrimage day OMG , what tough 126km/2100Hm . Heading met a Swiss pilgrim from Santiago is back on the road for 71 days. Typical french breakfast. I wanted to arrive in "Le Puy-en- Velay " . A very important Pilgrimage town . Notre Dame Cathedral, city center , etc. And then found a campsite for € 6.43 . What I 'm going for an early morning happiness :-) really sleep ! Now just relax , eat something and then stroll :-)
Tuesday, 07.09 . tenth pilgrimage day Is it difficult to cathetrial " Notre Dame " to get a pilgrimage temple. To 10:00 clock waiting until the office was open . These two volcanic cones on the one hand there is a chapel from the 10th Century , on the other a statue of Mary , which is 18m high and walked on. That's what I saved this time , they did so in 2004 already "conquered" :-) Heat would have thought . Still sweating like an ox on best Fatbike terrain and now 1100 meters over the sea level a short rain shower came. Well, the rain gear must be aired again ;-) I thought that was it. Unfortunately, far from it :-( The big end still came ! Storm / heavy rain at 1400m . Then a long descent brrh , that was cold! Well, then just times today only 92km/2130Hm . Fits OK :-)
Wednesday, 10.07 . eleventh pilgrimage day Since "Le Puy-en- Velay " are noticeably more pilgrims go. There are also more and more hotels and restaurants / cafes that this clientele feel obliged :-) This morning I had to decide whether I ( from washing the day before) put on my wet clothes or wet from yesterday's rain :-) The trails are sometimes very narrow. Must partially elbows move :-). Today at noon again thunderstorm ! And wait to be with other pilgrims in the Church of dry Then a small pass at 1340m . At last the sun was coming :-) In between times a Pannachee and Ricard . One (s ) only treat nix ;-) I stag! Just because I followed the campsite sign, unnecessary 350 altitude meters :-( Short interim report : Today, after 11 days I have half the distance behind me. And another 17 days . From now on, I let 's tackle a less cozy :-) CHEERS in today 128km/1930Hm . Oh yes, today I ha a camp about 20km behind Estaing .
Thursday, 07.11 . , Twelfth pilgrimage day Mhh , there's something delicious as a instant noodle soup ? There is certainly a whole cow in there :-) ( last night ) Greetings to my home three . A little I miss you already ! Thanks, that makes me allow this trip :-) Stopover in Conques . Also a historic / important pilgrimage with a beautiful cathedral . The priest is also abiker, as he assured me :-) Here I've once again a tampon (stamp/punch) brought :-) Figeac , reached today's destination . Today has done with the heat quite nice to create . Was at times quite tired. Still better than the rain yesterday :-) First of one / two panachée and an Richard (frensch Schnaps) and then I'll look around a campsite. Laundry, showers, relax ;-) At the destination . ( 105km/1530Hm ) Comfortable campsite 15km behind Figeac .All good :-)
Friday, 12.07 . , Three tenth pilgrimage day The day begins gloriously . Breakfast at the campsite. Normally I start without and 2-3 hours later treat myself to something . Oh yes, always ask if the motorcycle or bike with electric drive :-) My solar panel front on the handlebar with which I take care of my iPhone, does the rest . But always astonished and friendly faces :-)) A good means of communication ;-) A welcome refreshment on the way :-) The crickets chirp so loud that it would drown myself an MP3 player . The air is thick ! Today I was almost dried up ! 've Been drinking too little . In dry air to forget that too often ! In between times at a former laundry room refreshes These stone houses are built without any mortar. An art. Probably served previously as cold storage for food Today I Cahors crosses and I landed on 116km/1890Hm near Lauzerte . Now all is well :-)
Saturday, 13.07 . ( fourteenth day) Good morning sun fat :-) With the right Jersey Pro 're running a lot better :-) The Camino de Santiago in France is particularly well marked , almost twice :-) He Runs but identical to the hiking trail " GR65 " Have today (beautiful cathedral) crosses , leave me there again be a pilgrimage temple of a nun and bought in the market in the course of the day 5 Monsterscrimps Moissac . A delicious late breakfast :-). I arrived today at a campsite in CONDOM . Now I finally know where these things come from , LOL. Again, you meet many pilgrims , each has very different stories in stock . Some are already on the road for months . The CVs are so different ! Today 's was quite wavy at 108km/2050Hm . Must stop along it wait a few glasses of red wine :-)))
Sunday, 14.7. , fifteenth pilgrimage day . : Yesterday I talked for a long time with nice people and drinking too much red wine. Midnight in the sleeping bag is definitely too late for a pilgrim :-) . This morning the weather is much nicer for cycling : Cloudy, warm enough , just lovely. Seats degree patronize EAUZE on the market place and leave with a cup of coffee and a coke . My Moonlander runs perfectly . Now I have approximately 1000km from me. Since it 's time to thank me for the perfect bike - tuning : " Thanks to the team of " Bike Word Brand ( Photo Speedneedle ) "( Gerhard , your scallop I will not forget ) . " How cool : sitting in a cool looking pub and with the degree of the TdF last 17km to :-) ) So, today my first Cité l'Etape ( pilgrims ) in pimbo . OK , not quite : because all the beds are full, I put up my Tarptent before. But I could shower / laundry and I was invited to dinner :-) As such , 115km/1920Hm perfect :-)
Monday, 15.7. . sixteenth day Yesterday was National Day on Sunday in France . Therefore wars decorated everywhere . And the veterans are walking with flags and brag :-) The pilgrims in hostels rather go to bed early in the morning to run off. I also crawled yesterday at 21:30 into my tent and today rode on at six . It was another gorgeous cloudy and warm, wonderful :-) And who do I meet there on the track? " Dieter from Heidelberg ." The coolest pilgrims until now :-) He has a donkey and self-made trailer for a long time go. This is totally thought out, 170cm mattress , kitchen , solar , etc. All on board :-) On the way I should help a farmer. He had problems with his tractor and not a mobile phone with you . It was really funny, as I explained to him my iPhone :-)) The ground is constantly changing : asphalt, gravel , earth. Today I landed after 102km/1850Hm a few km before the "Croix Gibraltar " . Tomorrow over the Pyrenees to Spain. Ultreya !
Tuesday, 16.07 . seventeenth day Last night I enjoyed a delicious 4-course meal. Had really hungry :-) Unfortunately raining this morning . I arrived at 11:00 in " St. Pied de Port ." The last place in France. Now it's high above the Pyrenees. Nice that the rain has stopped . Thunder in the background! Moves past :-) The climb was quite hard! 've Pushed a few times , well, at some 20%. Several times in the clouds. At the highest point then wonderful weather . Time to rest , like many other pilgrims also . The descent down to Roncesvalles was perfect. Have then a few miles later after 81km/2070Hm pitched my tent. Tomorrow at noon I will pass through Pamplona. CHEERS ;-)
Wednesday, 17.07 . eighteenth day This morning, at six it was totally foggy . When I 'm rode on at eight , the sun has once again shown their best side :-) The pilgrimage is quite well developed. Masses of foot pilgrims are traveling. Pilgroms by bike I meet only when road passages are . Degrees now at 13:00 clock I sit in a park in Pamplona and relaxe a little . Are as beautiful as these cities, I'm happy if I can get away from the traffic again . Pilgrims sign for cyclists in the city. Beautiful pilgrimage routes , often very rocky. On a mountain this magical place with metal figures : Nice ! The pilgrimage day is done again . 93km/1500Hm , the latter are still quite slow. Have a wonderful campsite reached :-) Still 660km to Santiago. Ultreya !
Thursday, 18.7 . , Ninetenth pilgrimage day Last night I was pretty broken . So my dinner was out of my backpack : beer, bread , salty anchovies in oil, and rabbit in white wine in a can . But all very delicious :-) I slept deeply and long . Today 's morning was often cloudy because the heat is more bearable then . Move repeatedly signs on the " Camino " (path ) Beautiful old churches. Make lunch break after 65km in Logrono . That feels good to rest in the shade :-) :-) I landed again at a campground in Najera to 99km/1780Hm ) Today 's going to the beautiful town for dinner :-)
Friday, 19.07 . , 20th pilgrimage day 2 servings of calamari , 2 Cerveza and a glass of vino tinto : me it felt really well last night :-) This morning at ten I have achieved " Santo Domingo de la Calzada ." Here I will go and take a late breakfast . The cathedral here is unique. It live in a cage two chickens! ( Times after googling " chicken miracle" :-)) In between a sign : even 559km :-) At 16:30 I reached BURGOS . I'm Pretty tired . First a cerveza and scampi , which builds on :-) After 96km/1660Hm I've decided to use after just three weeks again a hotel bed shortly . All good, CHEERS :-)
Saturday, 20.07 . , Twenty-first pilgrimage day . :-) Slept perfectly. Today the stage is quite flat . If the brutal heat would not ! The pilgrim path is perfect for my Moonlander . Meet a host of pilgrims. Beautiful short conversations go :-) Many build cairns on the edge of the road , nice :-) Beautiful barren landscape. I was mainly on the Meseta plateau (~ 850 m asl ) on the way . There is a passage where 15km long there is no way to absorb water . For a pilgrim by bike no problem. But for foot pilgrims. A dry Irish I gave my 1.5 liters of water . He drank on the first ex liters of arms. Today I sleep in the garden of a hostel for pilgrims . This has two reasons: 1 All beds were occupied , 2nd the tent 's is not as stuffy as in a 20 bed hall :-) All other benefits (showers, food , Smalltalk and the atmosphere ) I enjoy of course :-) Oh, 103km/920Hm :-)) Ultreya !
Sunday, 07.21 . 22ter pilgrimage day I slept in my tent, the other pilgrims in beds :-) When I removed early today at 07:30 my tent , all the pilgrims were already on their way . Well, the most I'll see in the next hour on the Camino again :-) At noon I had already done 50km , again very flat today :-). In the early afternoon I reached LEON . Here is one of the most beautiful cathedrals in all the way . Unfortunately is also more and more of a commercial . € 5 it costs to consider it from the inside ! Not with me . Finally in 2006 I was already here :-) Have ended at 16:30 after 100km/950Hm my ride today . Stay at a hostel for pilgrims , sometimes exceptionally in a bed :-) I am now approximately 25km before ASTORGA . Tomorrow I expect a few real hills . But it's only another 285km to the finish :-)) ALL GOOD!
Monday, 22.07 . twenty-third day : What a day ! Everything was perfect today :-) I just love the small churches go. Flaunt it but not so. I biked over the highest hill of the entire pilgrimage tour. Here is the " Croix de Ferre ," the Iron Cross . This stands on a mound of stones. Many of these stones bring pilgrims from their starting point and leave them here . A beautiful custom :-) On a downhill a Shaman created a very cool pilgrims stop . Flags and path Childer. Today I landed in a beautiful hostel for pilgrims . Many small cabins around an old church. Today 98km/1420Hm . There are 194km and some hills in front of me ! CHEERS ! (And very hungry )
Tuesday, 23.7. , 24th Radpilgertag Sooo horny today ! Sleep wonderfully , got up at six , seven clock biked on. This morning 's was amazingly fresh, but good thing :-) The way was up again quite rocky and very steep, partially pushed . Degree seat at 12:00 clock at the " Col d ' Cebreiro " ( 1293m ) . The last long climb of the Tour . 'm Just sooo happy :-))) Funny , I always find the Japanese pilgrims. They wrap their skin completely so they do not with rice farmers who are partially browned at home , be confused ;-) A very large and impressive Jacob's statue on a mountain shortly after Cebreiro. And then a wonderful departure :-) These two Spanish üilgrims by nike meet for a few days again :-) Very nice with bumpy English :-) The last km to SIERRA ( 87km/1930Hm ) were easy . Are then moved in with another pilgrims in a pilgrim hostel for 8 € . Still 112km to Santiago. I 'm sharing in a laid-back day 2 :-)) Ultreya !
Wednesday, 24.7. , Twenty fifth day Today it has meant good weather back with us pilgrims. Beautiful cloudy and cool in the morning :-) I just connected the two Spanish pilgrims . We drive the same relaxed pace. That fits. It is good that the guys have bells on their bikes . We overtaking but pilgrims walk in 10 -second intervals . This is not surprising . Yet the last 100km requirement for pilgrims walking to Santiago get the coveted " Compostela " ( discharge certificate ) . Stop at the first day I have had to give me a stamp in my pilgrim passport back in Porto Marin . Phew , now if it were very dusty! first a Cerveca ;-) Complete today for loose 63km/1230Hm my day in Melide . Morning 's are still 52km to Santiago :-) ) By the way : Tomorrow will take place in Santiago , the biggest festival of the year instead . According to legend, the 25th of July of the death of Saint James . The city is full. I'm excited !
Thursday, 07.25 . twenty-sixth pilgrimage What a great evening yesterday . Have with the 2 Spanish bike-pilgrims in a " pulperia " (squid ) fed . This white wine at its best :-). The anticipation of Santiago is VERY BIG ! Today 's rained as same as other many days . On the way I 've also enjoyed a small shower from below :-) . Shortly before this giant Santiago pilgrim statue is great . Right now in 14:30 I arrived in Santiago. . I AM TOTALLY HAPPY , I think that you can sympathize with me :-) 52km/1050Hm again today for statisticians, but that's no matter now :-))
CONCLUSION: What have I done wrong : NOTHING. I have the track very well divided me. Made good at the beginning km and at the end, as the forces a little and eased the plug by the many pilgrims was always interesting , regulated back and enjoyed everything a lot better. I had stomach problems except no other mishaps , either physically or with my equipment . Overall, it was again an experience of a special kind : sporty cycling, great scenery, lots of nice people met , the special of the pilgrimage " learn " me to the essential of life ( food , drink , dream , sleep , enjoy ) leveled .. ... Whom I thank for this experience? First, my 3 loved ones who released me again . Then my friend Franz from Brendlorenzen , without whom I would never have had the Camino de Santiago in focus. The plethora of nice people on the go. I have in these four weeks never seen or heard a bad word a grim expression. Can you devote as a pilgrimage someone? I mean, YES : I am thinking of our late last year at a bike ride friend Klaus Schön with them I and six other friends were "experienced" the Way of St. James a few years ago . I am now so much on to be able to be home with my family and my friends :-))) It was nice :-) 2.750 kilometers and 50,000 altitude meters